Landmark and day trip
Aït Ben Haddou
A fortified earthen village on the far side of the Atlas. The road there is part of the visit.
Photo: Petar Milošević, CC BY-SA 4.0
What you are looking at
A ksar, meaning a fortified village, built in rammed earth and stacked up a hillside beside the Mellah river. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and a few families still live inside it.
The material is what strikes you. Rammed earth takes light differently from stone: it absorbs rather than reflects. Late in the day the whole village moves from beige to red.
The road matters as much as the site
You reach it from Marrakech over the Tichka pass, which crosses the High Atlas. The road is beautiful, winding and slow. It is not a highway and should not be treated as one.
That is why this runs as a full day, or with a night in Ouarzazate.
Before you go
Bring water and a hat. There is almost no shade on the site, and the climb to the collective granary is in full sun.
If the river is running you cross on sandbags or the footbridge. Not a problem, but not a walk in city shoes either.
Common questions
Can you visit Aït Ben Haddou in a day from Marrakech?
Yes, but it is a long day, and most of it is spent on the road over the Tichka pass. Many travellers prefer a night in Ouarzazate.
Do people still live there?
A few families do. Most residents moved to the modern village on the other side of the river.
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